Memory Unequaled
Emotion overcomes me at strange times. I can spend hours with my mother who no
longer knows me and maintain composure even as I watch her close her eye to
spare herself the sight of me, the sight that signals to her on some level that
she should know this face opposite her.
Rather than look intently and be puzzled, she peeks—one eye open—tries
to place me but can’t, closes her eye again, breathes deeply and mutters what
sounds in rhythm and tone like a prayer under her breath. What is she praying for? I like to think she is praying for a concept
she can sense but no longer articulate, peace of mind, but I can’t be
sure.
Weeks later, having thought of her often with a sweeping
sadness yet unconsummated by tears (I have shed so many for her over the last 7
years I sometimes feel they have dried into an invisible armor), I am searching
my baking cabinet for yeast. I want to
bake a cake: a Bienenstich, or “bee sting” cake.
I need instant yeast, which I never use, and I’m struck with the thought
that I might have a packet that my neighbor gave me several months ago. All of my mind’s recipes called for the
reliable jar of active-dry yeast I kept in the fridge, not instant, and I
wasn’t sure what I had done with the packet or if I’d kept it at all. But this is a new cake, and I am determined: it
is spring’s eve, and the chirps, buzzes, and breezy warmth wavering from screen
window through screen door are inspiring. Topped with honey-caramelized almonds
and filled with a fluffy pale yellow pastry cream, this cake seems perfectly
fitting.
So here I am on my stepstool searching, reaching, and
reorganizing my baking cabinet in hopes of finding that tiny platinum packet of
instant yeast. I finally spot it in the
back left corner between crumpled packets of Equal, the sugar substitute I also
never use. Equal. I’m instantly overcome
with a sinking nausea and a rising lump in my throat as a vision appears: two
torn beige-stained packets of Equal weighted by a used spoon adjacent a
lipstick-smudged half-empty mug of lukewarm coffee resting on an oak veneer
table. This is the breakfast table on
any busy morning of my childhood and this is my mom’s coffee: one and a half
packs of Equal with plenty of half and half, fat free. On the heels of this vision is the memory of
countless quiet morning rides to Catholic school in the chartreuse green
interior of the white-walled Pontiac Bonneville where her coffee mug rested on
the dashboard, tilting slightly back and forming an egg-shaped cloud of steam
on the windshield between her and me.
She is the reason those Equal packets are still in my
cabinet. I’d kept them when we remodeled the kitchen a few years ago. The last time she was in my house and still
knew how to fix her coffee the way she liked it had been years before that. And
yet here they are: envelopes of a sugar substitute I loathe reminding me of the
first thing on this earth I ever truly loved, my mother. Tiny blue packets of Equal arousing mighty
memories and stinging tears, tears I thought I’d long since forgotten how to
shed.

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